I’m running barefoot along the promenade, rental surfboard in hand and a smile on my face. The Japanese fella, Motto, from T-Stick Surf Shop was friendly and spoke good English. I’m forever grateful for kind locals that don’t make me feel like a dumb alien in this foreign land. I arrive at the beach and pause. I should be sensible and stretch beforehand. I run straight into the water.

The waves aren’t the biggest but rolling enough to keep you going…if you know how to surf. Around me, people are dancing along their board with beautiful posture, dismounting with grace. Other surfers are calmly poised on their board, inspecting the horizon, waiting for the right wave. Me? I’ve just fallen off my board… for the 50th time…within 10 minutes. I suck at surfing.

I’ve been surfing a fair few times but still can’t get the hang of it. This does not stop me from enjoying the sport and feeling at peace in the sea. I’m a strong believer that you don’t have to be good at something, to enjoy it. It felt special to be surfing in front of Mt Fuji, it’s a shame I didn’t put on a good show. After 2 and a half hours of wipeouts in the fun afternoon sun, it was time to return the board and wetsuit. It was refreshing to be back on the board. Next time I’ll be sure to make the most of the whole day. 

I skate along the promenade and find a quiet spot on the beach to watch the sunset. Phone switched off, kindle turned on. 

As the sun retreats behind MT Fuji, the waves begin to intensify. I’m listening to the water. I feel connected and at peace. It turns out, I’m sat closer to the shore than I realised. I get back to my book after retreating to higher and drier ground. The new chapter reads “Be Present”.

The title alone made me put the kindle down and focus on my present surroundings. Out of the blue, I start to tear up. I decide to allow the unexpected tears to continue. Why am I crying? Maybe the sudden realisation of pure solitude and escapism of a crowded city? Probably the pure bliss of my current location? I stop worrying about the next task, the pending event I need to be at, the chore I have to complete. My cluttered thoughts, plans and ideas drift away with the backwash of the waves. It felt freeing to properly slow down, relax and encourage whichever emotions came to me. I reflect for a short time before packing up and skate to the nearby station.

Back to the city I go…